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Netsuke
(pronounced “net-ski” or “net-skeh”) are tiny sculptures that originated
in Japan as an accessory to traditional Japanese clothing. They have since
evolved over a time period of three hundred years into works of art that are
both collected and revered by art aficionados across the globe.
Originally,
Netsuke served both functional and aesthetic purposes. The Japanese kimono did
not have pockets, so women would hold small objects in their sleeves, and men
would wear a silk cord on their obi, or sash. From the cord, they would hang
items such as tobacco pouches and coin purses. These items were known as
sagemono. To stop the silk cord from slipping under the weight of their
sagemono, they would attach a small toggle to the cord. These toggles were known
as netsuke, which literally means, “root for fastening”.
All three items
(the obi, sagemono and netsuke) were beautifully decorated with carvings,
lacquer work and inlays of precious metals, ivory, coral and other rare or
expensive materials. Netsuke were often carved into different designs, and were
shaped as everything from animals to humans to abstract patterns. Because of
their individuality and uniqueness, netsuke quickly became highly collectable
and their design became a coveted art form. Netsuke were also a sign of social
status, as the craftsmanship and the quality of materials used varied between
individual pieces. The wealthy tended to own better quality netsuke.
Netsuke can be
made from a large variety of material, the most popular being ivory. However, it
is not uncommon to find netsuke made from wood, animal tusks and antlers, amber,
pottery, bamboo and more. There are many different styles of netsuke as well.
The most common style is called katabori, or
figural netsuke. These are the netsuke that resemble people or animals. Another
type of netsuke are sashi, which are long
and thin. Manju netsuke are named after a
bean paste dish because of their round shapes that look similar to buttons. Kagamibuta,
which means “mirror lid”, are netsuke that consist of a metal lid and a
bowl. Finally, mask netsuke are fashioned
after the masks in the Noh or Kyogen style plays that were popular in Japan at
the time. Common netsuke subjects included the animal characters taken from the
Asian zodiac as well as mythological figures, heroes and scenes from everyday
life, but netsuke subject matter was hardly limted to these and they could take
the form of anything the artist could possibly imagine.
By the 19th
century, netsuke were no longer needed in their functional role. Japanese
culture, and thus dress, was heavily influenced by European styles, and the
kimono and obi fashion fell out of favor. They still remained highly collectable
however, as the startling amount of detail that went into each netsuke was a
true jewel in the crown of Japanese art development. Today, netsuke fetch hefty
prices from collectors around the world who admire the intricate and delicate
craftsmanship, and the uniqueness and individuality of these beautiful works of
Japanese art.